Lighting & Control
Lights - How many are there?
Last Updated (Friday, 26 February 2010 22:07) Monday, 15 February 2010 18:54
Just how many lights are there under each of the fluxing tubes? I just don't know. There are at least 4, but there may be as many as 6 from what I've read on other BTTF web sites. While I'm sure having 3 would probably be fine, if I'm making the circuit from scratch, adding more lights is not a big deal.
I decided a little investigative work was in order. I popped in my BTTF DVD and imported the Flux Capacitor clip into my video editing software.
Now, I know all about film speeds and frame rates from 20+ years working for Kodak and there's just so much you can gather from looking at a DVD, frame by frame. I figured I'd count the lights I can see in each frame and plot their positions.
Click on the picture above for a closer look. I stepped through every frame I could and marked each light location that I saw. Except for occasionally seeing two lights at once (one turning on and one turning off) I never saw more than the 4 positions I have circled. Even considering frame rates and the possibility of missing a light, I'm not sure there are more than 4.
If you look at the spacing between the 3rd & 4th light (counting down from the top right) there may be enough room for another one. Also the first three overlap a little but #4 is all by itself.
So, the jury is still out as I need to do some further investigation!
Controlling the Lights
Last Updated (Sunday, 16 May 2010 19:14) Thursday, 04 March 2010 00:00
I plan on controlling the Flux Capacitor with a widely available micro-controller called the Arduino (Arr-Dwee-No). The Arduino is "an open-source electronics prototyping platform based on flexible, easy-to-use hardware and software. It's intended for artists, designers, hobbyists, and anyone interested in creating interactive objects or environments."
I have experience programming other micro-controllers like the Oopic and the Basic Stamp, but wanted to try something new and different. Why get so fancy and complicated with a micro-controller you ask? Well, first it will give me infinite control over the lighting sequence. I'll be able to tweak the light sequence in any number of ways to get the proper look.
Here's a few other ideas I am thinking I can do with the Arduino.
- RF Remote control to turn the unit on/off.
- Changing the light sequence when you hit the magic 88 MPH (or at the push of the remote's button).
- Ambient light sensor to adjust the brightness according to the lights in the room.
- Proximity sensor to activate the 88 MPH mode when a person is near.
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The Arduino is priced at just $30 so you can't go wrong. It's about 3 in. x 3 in so it will fit nicely inside the Flux Capacitor. This pictures also shows the prototype "wings" attached. They have small screw terminals that are easy to attach wire too while prototyping. You can also see the USB cable attached. The cable is used for programming but not necessary once the Arduino is programmed.
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The small RF Transceiver module (<1 inch square) will be interfaced directly to the Arduino micro-controller I/O pins. The RF module communicates with the RF Remote Key Fob below. You program the Arduino to talk to the RF module and make sense of the signals you receive. |
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This is the RF Remote Key Fob I purchased to control the Flux Capacitor. |
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I've been experimenting with the Arduino and it is very fun to play with. I've been able to program a basic cascade pattern. I will post my code when I tweak it some more. I really like the flexibility it provides. Below is a video showing a quick test I did with the Arduino and a row of four LEDs. I set it to strobe at a constant speed. You can see that the video also drops a few lights because of the frame rate (like the original movie). The LEDs I'm using are very bright white. I ordered some Warm White LEDs and hope to get them in a few days. You can also see that I activate it using the RF Remote fob. The receiver is to the left at the end of the black cable. |
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Bright White LED's
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Disappointment |
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| I received my "Warm White" LED's today. While they were represented as a white LED with a yellowish incandescent glow, they sure look white to me. Below is a video for comparison. I also had the light sequence speed up each pass, to see what it would look like. |
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Warm White LED's
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| Yes, I know. I can't really see a difference either. Back to the drawing board. The good thing about dealing with a Flux Capacitor is it's pretty easy to go BACK and do it over. I really need to find an amber LED, I guess. | |
Another ExperimentBelow I have added a second row of LEDs at an angle and also 4 additional LEDs that will be in the corners of the box. They are set to flash after the 88 MPH speed-up sequence. |
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Lights Bars
Last Updated (Sunday, 16 May 2010 19:13) Sunday, 16 May 2010 00:00
After I watched the video over and over, I've decided on 4 lights per fluxing tube. I've spaced them out 16 mm, the first starting 8 mm from the back edge. Yes, I know that's metric. But it easier to measure than 41/64 inch.
I use a mill vise on my drill press so that I can drill the hole in line easier. First I drilled a 13/64 inch hole 3/8 inch deep. Then I counter-bored a 1/4 inch hole 1/8 inch deep. This will allow the light bars to sit down flat over the LEDs.
