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Flux Capacitor Electrical Box

Stahlin J1210HPL

I started by identifying the electrical box that was used for the real Flux Capacitor. Several web site seem to agree that it is a still available Stahlin Electrical box model J1210HPL. That means it is a Fiberglass 12 in. x 10 in. box.

I located one on eBay (where else) for about $70. It's not the correct color and needs a window cut in it, but it's the right one. It's also the perfect starting point. Here's a link to help you find the Stahlin Box.

Just be careful with eBay searches. If there are no Model J1210HPL Stahlin boxes available, eBay will show you other models. They will not work and are the wrong size or may not include the hinges and locking clasp.



Cutting the Box

Based on screen grabs and eye-balling, I settled on the dimensions I wanted for the opening. I had to consider the thickness of the molding I am using.


The molding is quite stiff, so I am hoping it will make the corner without buckling. We will see.


Now remember, you are cutting fiberglass, so the appropriate precautions are necessary. Wear a mask and even gloves so you won't be picking fiberglass splinters out of your fingers afterwards.


Now remember, you are cutting fiberglass, so the appropriate precautions are necessary. Wear a mask and even gloves so you won't be picking fiberglass splinters out of your fingers afterwards.


I couldn't resist setting the internal panel in place and adding a few parts just to see how it looked. So far, so good! You're going to need some clear acrylic plastic for the window. A sheet 12 in. x 12 in. will be plenty. There are plenty of sources including your local big box store as well as Amazon.


I cut two holes in the bottom of the enclosure. One for the 9 V dc power input to the Arduino board and the other for the USB port. The plan is to be able to program/reprogram the Arduino while the Flux Capacitor is completely assembled. At this same time I used some automotive Bondo to patch some existing holes that were in the box. This box was purchased used and had a few holes drilled in it. If you've ever used Bondo, it's no big deal to fill them in.


Here's an inside shot. I decided I needed/wanted an on/off switch so I marked out where that opening will be as well.


All the new holes are drilled and the unwanted holes are filled. The on/off switch is on the right. It has a power LED built into it. Now it ready for the paint booth.


I also epoxied some PVC pipe pieces to the side and top of the box. These will be the anchors for the PVC elbows that will be attached after the box is painted.



Painting the Box

I had to mask off the hinges and latches to keep the paint off of them. They are riveted and not that easy to remove and replace. I also masked off the PVC tube mounts so the PVC cement will work.


I found a medium gray spray paint at one of the big-box stores. They call it Satin Granite.


Into the paint booth. It was a little large so I had to paint it one side at a time.


Lastly, I painted the two elbows that will mount to the top and side of the box. I painted them Dupli-color Instant Chrome Finish.