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Flux Capacitor Box

Cutting the Box

Based on screen grabs and eye-balling, I settled on the dimensions I wanted for the opening. I had to consider the thickness of the molding I am using.


The molding is quite stiff, so I am hoping it will make the corner without buckling. We will see.


Now remember, you are cutting fiberglass, so the appropriate precautions are necessary. Wear a mask and even gloves so you won't be picking fiberglass splinters out of your fingers afterwards.


Now remember, you are cutting fiberglass, so the appropriate precautions are necessary. Wear a mask and even gloves so you won't be picking fiberglass splinters out of your fingers afterwards.


I couldn't resist setting the internal panel in place and adding a few parts just to see how it looked. So far, so good! You're going to need some clear acrylic plastic for the window. A sheet 12 in. x 12 in. will be plenty. There are plenty of sources including your local big box store as well as Amazon.


I cut two holes in the bottom of the enclosure. One for the 9 V dc power input to the Arduino board and the other for the USB port. The plan is to be able to program/reprogram the Arduino while the Flux Capacitor is completely assembled. At this same time I used some automotive Bondo to patch some existing holes that were in the box. This box was purchased used and had a few holes drilled in it. If you've ever used Bondo, it's no big deal to fill them in.


Here's an inside shot. I decided I needed/wanted an on/off switch so I marked out where that opening will be as well.


All the new holes are drilled and the unwanted holes are filled. The on/off switch is on the right. It has a power LED built into it. Now it ready for the paint booth.


I also epoxied some PVC pipe pieces to the side and top of the box. These will be the anchors for the PVC elbows that will be attached after the box is painted.